The Beach Trek from Honnavar to Gokarna - Day 2
Posted by Anantha | Posted on Saturday, January 26, 2013
The day 2 started pretty early for us. By 7:30, we had
packed our tent and started walking towards the next hill at the end of the
beach. A boat had 'Nature Nirvana' painted in big fonts and was parked on the
beach. A villager who was on his morning walk on the beach said the beach is
now called Nirvana beach after that beach resort had started. The long stretch
had started as Kadle beach and had ended as Nirvana beach.
To our sursprise we saw few women carrying water from one of
the creeks of the rocks on the hill. That was a stream of fresh water flowing
down the hill all through the year it seems. That was really a nature's wonder,
to the left we had salt water to infinity and here was a source of fresh water
right on the shore. We freshened up there and ate few apples that we had carried
and walked up the hill. Once the trail on the hill led us to the back of that
big hill, we saw a range of small hills all covered with bushes and there was
no clear path. We still marched ahead, as always, Byre in front and me
following him. The trail got narrower with many thorny bushes on both the
sides. Both of us got many scratches, some cutting deep enough and some not so
deep. At one place I was bitten on my entire back and neck by red ants. We must
have disturbed its nest some where in the bushes. The burning sensation was
unbearable but surprisingly was momentary. I took off my shirt and vest and
cleared the ants. In an effort to help me, Byre was also bitten. Even after
that, we had some hope that the narrow trail might open up some where and we
might get to see the next beach. Few meters ahead, the trail almost demanded us
to crawl on our knees. At that point, we gave up. We decided to walk balk to
Nirvana beach. The decision was not so easy, as we had to face the ant attack
again on our way back. We got ready for it too. On our way back, almost at the
same place, the ants bit us again. Luckily there were not many this time. We
did the exercise of removing our shirts and vests again this time. Amidst all
that burning sensation on shoulders and back, we had a hearty laughter about
how foolhardy we are when it comes to trekking.
Seeking directions to the nearest bus stand from Nirvana
beach, we walked towards the road. It was 10:30AM by then. That means we had
wasted nearly two hours trekking that formidable hill. The village we reached
was called Kaagaala. That was a typical laid back village of North Kannada. I
love such places. In a shop there, I had ginger soda and Byre had some other
aerated local drink. The shop owner was wearing a faded white vest expanded to
the maximum to cover his large belly and a white dhoti. A typical costume for a
shop owner who might have his house at the back of the shop. You can find many
such houses where one of its rooms adjacent to the road being turned into a
shop in North Kannada, South Kannada and Udupi districts. When we told about
our failed attempt to cross the hill behind, the two other people at the shop
said, it is difficult to cross the hill at this time of the year. The shop
owner told us to catch the bus to Aghanashini river.
We reached the place where river Aghanashini meets the
Arabian Sea. As we had seen the last time where the nameless 'local river' had
met the sea, here also the union of river and sea was beautiful, no roar no
noise, just a calm union. Agha in Sanskrit means sin, Aghanashini means the
river which relieves us from our sins. The river is born in Sirsi and
joins the sea at TadaDi. We waited for the plying boat to cross the river.
While we were waiting for the boat, we turned back and had a look at the hill
which we failed to climb. The hill indeed was formidable, it was all covered
with bushes this side also.
A short ride in the boat and we reached TadaDi port. A guy told
us, from TadaDi port, beaches of Gokarna are not very far. We were happy and
also sursprised that we were so close to our destination. A relaxed lunch at Om
Beach in Gokarna looked very much possible. The first beach we got was Belekan
beach. We stopped at a shop there and gulped few packets of Masala Buttermilk. The
beach had few huts for rent facing the sea. At the door of one of such huts, we
saw a long bearded firang sitting and smoking. He clearly was stupored. May the
weed help him attain his enlightenment ;-)
A short uphill climb from Belekan beach led us to Paradise
beach. We saw a bunch of foreigners sunbathing there. The beach was full of
rocks and did not look suitable for taking a plunge into the water. We walked
to the Halfmoon beach. Byre said, Halfmoon beach is ideal for swimming. For the
little bit of floating skills we have got, calling it swimming will be an
exaggeration :-) We kept our bags on the rocks, slipped into our swimming
trunks and got into the water. Few were already in water with life jackets. We
got to know later that boats ply between Om beach and Halfmoon and charge some
bucks for providing the life jackets. Then they will be dropped back to the Om
beach. When we were getting into the water, a firang female also got into the
water. She seemed like an expert swimmer. Within few minutes she was at least
half a kilometer away from the shore. We continued playing in water. The firang
female kept swimming away. At one point we really had to strain our eyes to
spot her head in the sea, it looked like a mere black dot in the blue water.
Byre joked she might reach Murudeshwara by evening :-) I was envious of her
swimming skills. It's high time for me to hone my swimming skills. My breathing
techniques are terribly wrong. I need to practice a lot to get it right. Lot of
firangs were walking across the beach towards the Paradise beach. Some of them
got into the water and some lied sunbathing there it self. A middle aged firang
male was lying holding a book on the beach. He seemed disinterested in the book
he was reading, rather seemed like he was waiting for some thing. Then a boat
came from Om beach. All the people who
were still in water with life jackets got into the boat and the boat left to Om
Beach leaving Byre, me and just handful of people in water. The firang was
waiting for this I think. He kept his book aside, came near the rocks where we
had kept our bags, removed his shorts - the only garment on him and plunged
naked into the sea. I exclaimed, Waaww that's freedom, I want to do it too some
times!
Feeling hungry, Byre and I got out of the water, dresses up
and headed towards Om Beach. There are lot of people who walk across Paradise,
Halfmoon and Om beaches. Hence there is a clear trail on the hillls that
connect these beaches. We reached Om beach around 3PM. The shoulders were
paining after carrying our heavy backpacks for more than ~35kms and we were
hungry too. We got into a nice hotel facing the sea ordered our food and beer.
Byre booked the bus tickets back to Bangalore from Gokarna on his mobile. Again
few nice conversations with firangs around... Drinks.. Nice food and the beautiful
view of sunset from the beach. Thus was the end to our most memorable trek till
date.
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